LED Light Masks for Facial Rejuvenation: An Explainer

There are countless “best of” lists of LED light therapy masks intended for facial skin rejuvenation. These devices have become popular online. They are advertised as helping to:

• Treat aging skin (photoaging)
• Prevent photoaging
• Treat acne

This blog post will discuss:

• The theory behind this treatment modality, called photobiomodulation (PBM)
• Evidence for the effectiveness of PBM
• Evidence for the safety of PBM
• Possible reasons why these products have proliferated

LED Light Masks for Facial Rejuvenation Utilize Red and Near Infrared Light

These masks contain LED lights which are directed onto facial skin. They project different colors of light, each of which compose a narrow range of wavelengths (in nm):

• Red (approximately 630 – 680 nm)
• Near infrared (approximately 750 – 1200 nm)

Red and near infrared red light penetrate the skin deeper than other colors. Devices utilizing these wavelengths are intended to treat and prevent photoaging.

Red LED Light Masks are Based on the Concept of Photobiomodulation

The mechanism of action of red and near infrared light masks is referred to as photobiomodulation (PBM). Formerly known as Low Level Light Therapy (LLLT), PBM refers to using light to induce therapeutic changes in tissue. In this case, the tissue treated is skin.

LED Light Masks are Not Lasers

Lasers are also used for therapeutic purposes on the skin. However, lasers are more likely to be used in a clinical setting such as a physician’s office because they are more powerful. Unlike PBM, lasers are:

• Of a single wavelength
• Coherent (in phase)
• Collimated (in a parallel beam)

Lasers are able heat or ablate (destroy) the skin. PBM products do not (1).

The advantages of PBM over lasers include:

• Less expense, especially because LED lights have become inexpensive
• Home administration
• A larger surface area of treatment

PBM devices are also much less regulated by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) when compared with lasers. For example, manufacturers of PBM face masks can apply for FDA clearance without having to undergo the rigorous testing to prove safety and effectiveness that lasers require (2, 3). The above advantages are probably why products have proliferated.

Photobiomodulation is Thought to Help Cells Produce More Energy

The exact mechanism(s) by which PBM works is not entirely known. It is thought to be related to the activity of an enzyme that is targeted by the light delivered through these masks. The enzyme is called cytochrome c oxidase (CCO). COO is present in mitochondria, which are the energy generating machines of the body. Mitochondria create adenosine triphosphate (ATP), which is the primary energy delivery vehicle for the body. Red and near infrared light, in targeting COO, are thought to increase the production of ATP, thereby increasing cellular energy and activity. The result is improved collagen deposition and increased clearance of cells and molecules that can be harmful to the skin (4).

Evidence Shows Photobiomodulation Can Be Effective in Facial Rejuvenation

The available evidence for the effects of PBM on facial rejuvenation shows benefit, though the studies have multiple limitations. A systematic review and meta-analysis, which included the best studies I could find, found PBM can significantly reduce wrinkles and fine lines in treated patients (5). However, the weaknesses of this data include:

• Limited data on humans
• Studies with humans have relatively few participants
• Significant conflicts of interest related to industry funding of these studies

Current Evidence Suggests Products are Safe if Used as Intended

A single blinded, randomized controlled trial was conducted to determine safe dosing of PBM on multiple skin types. This study showed PBM to be safe for skin of all types up to levels higher than the usual amount delivered from devices sold directly to consumers (6). Furthermore, a systematic review found no evidence that PBM causes dysplastic (pre-cancerous) changes in human cells (7).

LED Light Masks are Promising but Caution is Necessary

In conclusion, LED light masks (PBM) are a promising method to help address photoaging at home, safely, and with minimal risk of side effects. However, the overall effectiveness of these devices is likely limited and should be considered only as part of a multi-modal approach to skin care. Also, one should keep in mind the reason these devices have proliferated is not necessarily because they are so much more effective than other treatments, but because they are less regulated and considered safer than other modes of facial rejuvenation.

References:

1. Avci P, Gupta A, Sadasivam M, Vecchio D, Pam Z, Pam N, Hamblin MR. Low-level laser (light) therapy (LLLT) in skin: stimulating, healing, restoring. Semin Cutan Med Surg. 2013 Mar;32(1):41-52.
2. Sun Y, Lan CE. Commentary on: Photobiomodulation: The Clinical Applications of Low Level Light Therapy. Aesthet Surg J. 2021 May 18;41(6):739-740.
3. Glass GE. Photobiomodulation: The Clinical Applications of Low-Level Light Therapy. Aesthet Surg J. 2021 May 18;41(6):723-738.
4. Hamblin MR. Mechanisms and Mitochondrial Redox Signaling in Photobiomodulation. Photochem Photobiol. 2018 Mar;94(2):199-212.
5. Ngoc LTN, Moon JY, Lee YC. Utilization of light-emitting diodes for skin therapy: Systematic review and meta-analysis. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2023 Jul;39(4):303-317.
6. Jagdeo J, Nguyen JK, Ho D, Wang EB, Austin E, Mamalis A, Kaur R, Kraeva E, Schulman JM, Li CS, Hwang ST, Wun T, Maverakis E, Isseroff RR. Safety of light emitting diode-red light on human skin: Two randomized controlled trials. J Biophotonics. 2020 Mar;13(3):e201960014.
7. Glass GE. Photobiomodulation: A Systematic Review of the Oncologic Safety of Low-Level Light Therapy for Aesthetic Skin Rejuvenation. Aesthet Surg J. 2023 Apr 10;43(5):NP357-NP371.